Ceremonial Jumpsuit

Yesterday we opened the Academic Year. This is an event in which new students are welcomed to the community, and teachers show up in black gowns. I try to make a fun thing for the events that we do, but this time I wanted something different. I have been dreaming of a jumpsuit for a while now, and I figured that yesterday’s celebration would be a fine occasion (and necessary kick-in-the-butt) to get my ass in gear and get cutting.

I decided to check out my stash for some fabric. I eventually found some fabric that is very stable, but very stretchy in one direction. It was the only bit that I thought was large enough really, as it turned out, it was also perfect. The pants pattern I used is the free Helena Culottes pattern by Ralph Pink, which by now has seen numerous alterations. I started by cutting out the pants as frugally as I could, using some striped fabric as used before in a shirt as pocket fronts. I also changed the grainline a little, because in the past there have always been weird folds in the back leg. The size of the pocket opening was also decreased, significantly, and a bit of the top was left off.

Pattern changes September 11

For the top, I first gathered some inspiration on Pinterest (e.g. this and this and this). It was quickly determined that I should do a v-neck, preferably with some overlap and maybe even sleevesies (church event and all). So searching though my pattern stash, I found a pattern in one of my old Burda magazines with all those characteristics (Burda Style 11-2007, pattern 112). Unfortunately the pattern only came in a size 76 (size 38 for long people), and I’m both smaller than size 38 and short. On the pattern piece you can see three (or four) different line colours to distinguish between the different sizes to create an approximate size 36. I then pinned the overlap together at the center and pulled the points down until they would fit my front and not be overly large. Sewed that all to the waistband that I sewed on to the inside, such that the inside waistband would be clean finished.

Inside front Inside back

I then added the second layer of the waistband and zig-zagged that on. I used a zig-zag stitch, because I found out that the fabric was so stretchy, that I was able to pull it over my butt without having to use closures! This makes it approximately the easiest thing to put on and be ready to go out. It’s easier than most knit dresses, as it has pockets!

Front Pocket

The top is a little wide-set, so to not show bra straps (and it being.. 9 o’clock on the night before the event), I found some fur-hooks to hook the straps behind and keep them from view. They do double duty with keeping the top on my shoulders. Although I have to take care when putting bags over my shoulder as that can dig in.

Bra-hook Front Back

So now for the full length view, in front of my closet. These pictures are unfortunately not the best ever. So I’m hoping that event photographers managed to get me once with some better light and stuff. I got a number of compliments (and people being surprised that I made it) which makes me very happy. It was worn to work today and it’s perfectly fine to do an entire day of office work in too.

Conclusion, I really, really like it and will enjoy wearing it in the future!

Green Plaid Pants

More everyday pants have definitely been on the list for a while now. Currently, I tend to wear pants on a daily basis, but I only have a few pairs that I’ve made myself. I seem to gravitate to the three pairs of bought (old) jeans that I own. I want to change that by giving myself more options. Important aspects for pants to me are belt loops for my keys, back pockets for the access card to work and that they stay up and don’t sag too much.

This plan started one day, when, after about the 5th time I saw some plaid fabrics, I decided that I just needed to have a cut in green and in red. The green was destined to become these pants, while I’m hoping I’ll be able to make a nice jacket with the red stuff (which may or may not have green plaid elbow patches in the future). The cuts are probably less than 2 meters long, so I knew I didn’t have much wiggle room.

I also knew that in the pants I wanted to have the plaids matched horizontally for sure, and vertically as much as possible. The plaid is not balanced in that one of the white stripes is lighter than the other. I knew symmetry was not going to be possible. The pattern I chose was the Helena Culottes pattern by Ralph Pink which I made before here. I did decrease the height at the top, such that it is more at my natural waist now. The waistband pattern from another pair of pants was fetched and added to the top, which worked out better than expected.

Front Back

The pants have front pockets, a front zipper opening and double welt back pockets. I wore it to work today and it stayed up for the entire day. I think this is the first pair of pants that, while not being too tight, fit at the top and stay in the correct place. This may also be because there is no stretch in this fabric.

Inside front Inside back

Left the front and right the back of the pants on the inside. I matched plaids all along the legs too and they turned out really well. The fabric is fairly thick, with one side that is fuzzy and one size that is not. I chose to have the fuzzy side on the inside because I thought it would feel better on the skin. I also thought that because it is so thick, it would be better if I would use a different fabric for parts of the pocket lining and waistband. Some man’s button down shirt in a green/blue/yellow plaid seemed thin enough to work. I cut the hidden bits of the pockets from them. The backs of the pockets needed to be the original fabric (mostly) because I wanted to match the plaids where possible. It worked, also in the welt pockets.

Front pants Back pants

I like them, I wore them the entire day and I felt really comfortable, and warm! Now to see if they will survive my living and laundry schedule!

On to the next pair…

High-High Waisted Pants

As I mentioned before, I made pants! I made, what I consider to be the prettiest pants I’ve ever made. Sadly, not everyone agrees with me and apparently I look like a hillbilly. I will be ignoring the nay-sayers and continue to wear my fancy pants.

Anyway, these were fashioned after a free pattern. The pattern is called the Helena Culottes by Ralph Pink and can be found here. The pattern looks to be shortish pants, but when I made a muslin they already reached the halfway mark of my calves. I decided I wasn’t going to wear shortish pants anyway, so I added one A4 to the bottom and decided that that should be long enough to wear. It turned out that I was right!

Front Back

The pants were made from a red thin wool fabric. It feels like I’m wearing pyjamas that hug me the entire day. It’s wonderful. I especially like the side view. The second picture is the front, with three covered buttons on it. These buttons are just decoration, they are not functional. In the original pattern, the flap wasn’t supposed to have the fold over that my version has, but I’m too short waisted apparently for the original pattern.

Side Front

The amount of closures is quite large. The first layer is a waist stay to keep the pants up (the beige thing). There are also zip ties in the darts for a bit of stiffening. The waist stay has two sets of hook and eyes. The next layer is the zipper that closes the pants, and the hook and eye at the top of the zipper. The last layer is the snaps. There are two large snaps attached to the waistband and eight small ones to keep the flap flat. There are also two pockets in the front and two double welt pockets in the back. The welt pockets only took 3 times each side, I was staying up too late to work on those. However, they did work out wonderful, I’m also not scared of making them anymore.

Closures Pocket

In my opinion, pants don’t usually fit me this well, so I’m planning on adapting this pattern to become a multitude of different things. I’m going to try to make ‘normal’-waisted pants, a playsuit and maybe a swimsuit? But that’s all future talk. First I’m going to try to finish a long sweater, a scarf and a shirt with little vintage people on it. Wish me luck!