German Triangles Blouse

Getting my head around a German bluse.

I’ve been looking for a long sleeve button up pattern for ages. Then one day, someone posted a picture of their just completed button up shirt on a Facebook group I’m in. The pattern was the Julia hemdbluse from Pattydoo. Pros: long sleeves, only 3 euro, I’ve worked with her patterns before for my coat and a sweater, has video instructions. Cons: German, basically shaping through the body. The pros weighed up against the cons and I purchased the pattern. As for the fabric, is was in my hoard from when I was preparing to make the dress form and bought a bunch of fabrics. It’s a white cotton with yellow and black triangles.

This seemed to be a perfect fabric for this project. It was stable, crisp and would be able to hold poppers without difficulty. I was going poppers all the way, since there were too many buttonholes for my liking otherwise. The pattern has roll-up loops included so I decided to make those. This was also the first time in my life I actually used the ‘burrito-method’ of shirt making, so I’m very happy to scratch that off my to-sew list. I only deviated from the pattern at one point, and that was to add a smaller size popper to the collar stand. I chose a yellow one from my baby-poppers set for a little bit of contrast and because the normal size looked simply too big on the tiny stand.

In conclusion, the pattern went together wonderfully. The video guide is super helpful and I definitely know two German word combinations now (umbügeln – pressing and knappkantig absteppen – topstitching). I don’t like the body shape and length of the pattern, so I will probably substitute the Simplicity 2255 modified body shape for a future project. I also already know what fabric I will use for that project, since it has been in my stash for .. a long time now. We’ll see when I’ll get around to it.

Definitely Not Denim

In the month I wear mostly skirts, I chose to add to my pant collection by hacking some bloomers.

While I’ve been doing quite a lot of historical-ish and plush sewing, I also felt that my current wardrobe had some gaps. I wanted more long pants, preferably some jeans. I also wanted to try the Cycling Bloomers pattern from Bikes & Bloomers some more, since I liked the width, the pockets and the back waist points. So I grabbed some paper and some tape and made a new frankenpattern. Then I grabbed some weird blue fabric that drapes too much to be real denim and got to work.

The pattern came together easily although there was again some pulling along the front pockets. This time I fixed it by adding a tab and a popper. If I do make it again, and I’m expecting that I will, I’m going to try to add some width along the front so it doesn’t pull as bad and make a single welt pocket. Hopefully that’ll deal with the issue. I did add some back pockets to this version and I used the free pattern by The Last Stitch for those. Lastly, I added some belt loops to the sides to hang keys on. If we can ever go back to the office, I need to leave my keys somewhere.

They are quite long (6.5 cm in the hem) but I guess I’ll see how they hold up or if it shrinks up. I’m a little afraid that the fabric pulls out of shape easily, but there’s only one way to figure it out and that is to keep wearing it. So far, it’s been very comfortable! I’m not sure yet if it will replace my normal pants pattern. This one does take a lot more fabric due to the width in the legs. I guess I’ll keep you posted.

Pussycat Bow Blouse

I think this blue and black polka dot fabric actually came from the market in Rotterdam. I’ve since used it in two different projects. The first finished one was the Pussycat Bow Blouse from VeraVenus.com. This was supposed to be a darted kimono sleeve blouse with a tie to create a pussycat bow. I printed the pattern, taped it together and used it to cut my fabric. I didn’t take pattern matching into account, so the dots are not completely aligned across the front. I debated for a while whether I cared and decided not to.

Due to fabric shortage, I had to cut the tie from 4 bits of fabric instead of one or two. I don’t think it’s very noticeable though. The other deviation I made was to close the darts a lot further than the pattern indicated to create a more fitted silhouette. It’s still quite loose in the body, but the tie is generally a little tight, so it’s a fascinating piece to wear. I’m still trying to figure out what other clothes it goes with. I do hope I can get it into general rotation soon.

Coloured Lines & Yellow Plaid

So I have been sewing quite a lot and then not posting about the exploits. That’s going to change again. This time, I’m going to tell you about more blouses. During the Great Utrecht Fabric Haul of 2019 (first described here), I got two more fabrics that were destined to become popper-tops. As per the original, the pattern is Simplicity Naaimode 9, model 59 (aka Simplicity 2255), but with smaller armholes and thinner sleeves.

I started with a white fabric with little bits of coloured lines on them. I sewed it up pretty quickly and added white poppers. However, the first time I wore it, everything itched, so I’m afraid this one is ending up in the goodwill pile.

The second one was the same exact pattern now in a yellow plaid fabric. At the market I’d spotted a completely white line about 20-30 cm in from the cut edge, so I negotiated and got that 30 cm + 1 meter for the price of one meter. I cut the shirt from the non-fault bit of the fabric. It’s very stable so that was nice. I have been wearing this one a little. Yellow is one of my favourite colours, so that helps.

 

The yellow plaid was also used for two other things. A handkerchief and a baby slobber scarf. I can’t remember ever using a fabric handkerchief in my life, but since we were invited for a family reunion and asked to bring a handkerchief, I thought I’d quickly sew one up. This one is cut over the fault line because, who cares. The spit scarf was the same as the ones here. Even using the same backing, since I’d cut out 8 more at some point in the past.

All in all I still have some of the yellow left, so I’m not sure yet what it will be. I’ll think of something eventually!

Poppers on Plaid

At some point a while ago, I impulsively went to the fabric market in Utrecht. I’d woken up really early and got myself on a train by 7:25. The fabric market in Rotterdam was not up and running yet at 9 when I got there, so I decided to trek on for another hour and go to Utrecht. Met my parents there and had a good time with them. I also got a number of fabrics to play around with. Two of those were destined to be together, one blue plaid with brown stripes and a brown fabric.

 

I started with the blue plaid and made a shirt out of it. The pattern was the same as for Red Birds and Foxes, Simplicity Naaimode 9, model 59 (aka Simplicity 2255). I downsized the pattern to a size 34-36(ish) and changed the back darts. Once it was sewed up, it was decidedly too long, so I cut off about 5 cm. It closes using snaps (or poppers). Since I bought myself a snap-setting-tool, I’ve been trying to put snaps onto everything. There is little more satisfying then undoing poppers like the hulk when undressing.

For the next iteration (and there will be a next iteration), I’ll make sure to make the armholes smaller. For this version they are a little too big, in a sense restricting a little movement. The side seams on the pattern are not equal, and I might fix that on the pattern for next time. I do still enjoy wearing it, so all’s well.